Tri-Tip Steak Frites with Red Wine Sauce
['28 to 30 ounces frozen french fries', '3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided', '1 (1 1/2-to 2-pounds) tri-tip beef roast (also called triangular roast; about 2 inches thick), cut into 4 steaks', '2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns', '1/4 cup dry red wine', '1/2 cup water', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons', '3 tablespoons finely chopped tarragon (optional)', 'Accompaniment: Dijon mustard']
Preheat oven to 475°F with racks in upper and lower thirds, with a 4-sided sheet pan in lower third.
Toss fries with 2 tablespoons oil in hot sheet pan, then bake according to package instructions until golden and crisp.
Meanwhile, pat steaks dry, then rub with peppercorns and 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Heat remaining tablespoon oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sear steaks on all sides, about 3 minutes total. Transfer skillet to upper third of oven and roast 9 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a plate and let rest 5 minutes.
Add wine to skillet and boil, scraping up brown bits, until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add water and meat juices from plate and boil briskly until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in butter until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.
Sprinkle fries with tarragon. Serve steaks with sauce and fries.
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