Provencal Fish Soup with Saffron Rouille
['4 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), chopped', '1 large fennel bulb, stalks discarded, reserving fronds for garnish, and bulb chopped', '3 medium carrots, chopped', '2 large celery ribs, chopped', '4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped', '1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil', '1 tablespoon herbes de Provence', '2 California or 4 Turkish bay leaves', '1/4 teaspoon cayenne', '1/8 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads', '5 pounds whole whiting, perch, or cod (preferably with heads), cleaned and rinsed well', '5 medium tomatoes, chopped (4 cups)', '2 cups dry white wine', '4 (3- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest', '6 cups water', '3 tablespoons tomato paste', '1 baguette, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices', 'Equipment: a food mill fitted with medium disk', 'Accompaniment: saffron rouille']
Wash leeks .
Cook leeks, fennel bulb, carrots, celery, and garlic in oil with herbes de Provence, bay leaves, cayenne, saffron, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in an 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.
While vegetable mixture cooks, cut fish crosswise into 2- to 3-inch lengths.
Add tomatoes, wine, and zest to vegetable mixture and bring to a boil, then boil 30 seconds. Add fish, water, and tomato paste and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until fish completely falls apart, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.
Arrange baguette slices in 1 layer on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown and thoroughly dried, about 20 minutes.
Force soup through food mill into a large heavy pot, discarding solids. Reheat soup over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Mound rouille on croutons and put 1 in bottom of each soup bowl. Pour soup around croutons.
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