Creamy Corn with Chives
['4 ears corn, shucked', '1 teaspoon kosher salt', '3/4 teaspoon cornstarch', 'Pinch of sugar (optional)', '1/4 cup finely chopped onion', '2 tablespoons unsalted butter', '1/3 cup water', '2 tablespoons minced fresh chives']
Working over a shallow bowl, cut off corn kernels, then scrape each cob with a knife to extract juice. Discard cobs.
Purée 2 cups kernels, reserving remainder, and all of juice in a food processor 2 minutes, scraping down sides. Force through a fine sieve into a bowl and discard solids. Stir in salt, cornstarch, and sugar.
Cook onion in butter in a saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until softened. Add reserved kernels and water and simmer briskly, covered, stirring occasionally, until corn is crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir corn purée again, then stir into kernels. Bring to a boil, stirring, and simmer, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. (If desired, thin with water.) Season with pepper and stir in chives.
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